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Aerial view of the chapel ruins of St Mary's on the Rock perched on a grassy cliff edge above the sea, with the majestic, extensive ruins of St Andrews Cathedral beside it.
The ruins of another historic church lie just outside the walls of St Andrews Cathedral.

On the clifftops beside St Andrews Cathedral you'll find an intriguing layout of low stone walls and foundations. This is what remains St Mary's Church, Kirkheugh, also known as St Mary's on the Rock.

The church was built in 1123 as a permanent home for the Culdees, an order of Celtic monks who rejected the new monastic orders of the Middle Ages. 

In 1249, St Mary's became the first college of secular priests in Scotland. Located between the walls of St Andrews Cathedral and the sea, the college thrived for more than 300 years. Regarded as a Chapel Royal, it enjoyed the protection of kings and bishops. In 1385 its leader, the provost, was allowed a place in the cathedral chapter.

The Protestant Reformation of 1560 brought an end to St Mary's heyday. At the time of the Reformation, there were still at least 13 clergy in the college.

Stone ruin foundations in well-kept grass, with imposing cathedral walls and towers rising behind.
Overhead view of St Mary’s on the Rock ruins on a grassy clifftop, with the sea and rocky shoreline beside the site.
Low stone foundations of a historic church set in green grass with the sea in the distance.

The church was originally cross-shaped. Its choir was longer than its nave, which allowed more space for priests than lay worshippers. Only low footings remain of its the building.

The finest masonry is found in the eastern choir. This seems to be the latest part of the church and was part of extensions in the later 1200s after the church was made a college. The base of the high altar is still visible.

The ruins of St Mary's are located on the coastal path to the pier and just north of St Andrews Cathedral.

Aerial view showing the cross-shaped stone foundations of St Mary’s on the Rock surrounded by grass and footpaths.
An interpretation panel in front of the stone foundations of a chapel.
Close aerial view of the full layout of St Mary’s on the Rock, showing intersecting stone walls forming the church footprint.